Lorenzo Villoresi, 1994
Nose: Lorenzo Villoresi
Hmmm… The air is filling up with the cold and dump cellar scent, dense and dark, and full of wet earth and dark soil tonalities. OK, I’m in! You have my attention! I am totally drawn and curious to see where this Vetiver will take me for a ride!
I guess I’m taken aback and positively surprised ! Because it is on the one hand very much what often the vetiver is about – that earthy dry scent; and on the other hand – because the combination of the listed head notes of bergamot, rosewood, and lavender just doesn’t come across to me (well, they didn’t until now!) as able to create that dump and airless cellar sculpture… I’m surprised, and it is just nice to be surprised by a perfume!
Villoresi’s fragrance is intriguing, but I wouldn’t say it is a straightforward scent to wear. I can actually imagine it as off-putting, too dirty and too demanding… Gripping and enthralling, sure, but as personal embellishment… Hmmmm, it could be a challenge! And oh, I’m all for a challenge when it comes to olfactory sensations!
After 3/4h the fragrance lazy warms up, or rather, the air ceases to be as austere and restrained and withdrawn (all in good terms for me! Nothing negative about those!) A little later, the Vetiver perfume moves away from the cellar to the kitchen pantry to play just a little bit more with sage and peppery pinch of spice.
As the time passes by, the cellar-like facet of Villoresi’s Vetiver faints and fades away. It also dries up from that dump-dark stone cellar, heading towards more greyish in place of stone-dark feel. For me, at this stage, the fragrance is also quite mossy, although moss is not listed in the notes. Overall, I rather enjoyed that rendering of vetiver theme by Lorenzo Villoresi, for it took me in a different direction to that of other vetiver based perfumes. Being a very popular note, vetiver perfume is not an easy task for a perfumeur to find one’s own individual way into the concept that would be insightful and not ‘just another…’ Precisely because it is such a popular and rewarding material to work with. And although here the Vetiver ends up in the well familiar realm of grey, mattée rendering (think Guerlain’s blueprint Vetiver), it arrives there in its own tempo, while trotting its own path.
Notes: palisander rosewood, bergamot, lavender, galbanum, petitgrain, bitter orange // neroli, sage, celery, cumin, nutmeg // vetiver, sandalwood, oakmoss, tonka bean, cedar and patchouli
Other perfume reviews and writings about Villoresi’s Vetiver:
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