Trèfle Pur by Atelier Cologne
Atelier Cologne, 2010
Nose: Jerome Epinette
The first airy whiffs are of orange, like a dust from underneath a foot beating the trail of dry earth. Then neroli. And peeled skin of an orange tree cortex. I mean, that greenish but pale’ish element, somewhere between the soft flexibility of a young, greener bark that gets more pale and yet, woodier as time goes by. With just a touch of accompanying cardamom in the background, adding some nuance and tonality to the perfume.
Trèfle Pur smells bitter and wet, and the image that sticks in my mind, for now, is a young tree of elderflower (elderberry). I remember playing with it a lot when I was a kid. We used the bushy, thin, and long branches for all sorts of purposes; as sticks (once we cracked them off the core) were relatively flexible (but not too much), and equally tough and hard (but not too much), they were rather versatile playing tool. With our pocket knives, we peeled the layer of the outer, fresh and young bark to reveal the greenish underskin. And then a little more, deeper into the more solid, wooden core of the branch/stick. Only to shape the end into a sharp and pointy, arrow-like ending. I couldn’t tell why we thought that each stick had to be pointy and finished like this, but somehow this was the practice de rigeur among us.
The opening scent of Atelier Cologne’s Trèfle Pur fragrance very much smells like that peeled, fresh bark of elderberry tree bushes. And let me just stress that I am not writing about the woody, dry, bark perfume; no, not at all. But about that green and fresh, still living layer; technically a bark, but it just feels too young for that name. The word ‘layer’ really somehow feels better-placed and more appropriate to use here… An interesting connotation, quite surprising to dig it out of my memory annals… But hey! That’s the power of the olfaction!
Notes: Bitter orange, Cardamom, Neroli // Violet leaf, Basil, Galbanum // Patchouli, Oakmoss, Cedarwood
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