Nose: Amélie Bourgeois
The head notes are a little surprise, since I was expecting more cologne formation from the listed top notes. Instead, the Paradis Perdu aka Paradise Lost from the cognac house Frapin, opens up to me with grassy, a little oily, and earthy bitterness. It all is rather withdrawn and matté, in place of punchy and zesty, as the hesperidia notes are usually exposed to us. It clearly is more that white underbelly of citrus skin (soft and bitter and tame), and less the oily-shiny outer layer of spritzy skin.
I quite enjoy this hay’ish and herbaceous perfume, but I wouldn’t say it kicks my balls or is anything special or attention grabbing. Which is actually a little surprising, as I like that opening twist, and I do enjoy quite a lot grassy and hay-heavy summery creations (vide: Erba Fresca in Geurlain’s Aqua Allegoria series – easy, and joyful and playful, and just great in summer times!)
In the heart notes – again, OK but in that grassy, herbaceous middling of pleasant but not rocking appeal – I did not mange to find an excitement I was hoping and counting for.
(Perhaps that is my problem here, that I have expected goddess knows what! (I really liked the other Frapin’s offer: Terre de Sarment), and then what I got was a decent grassy-hay fragrance, but no fireworks. And thus my slight disappointment… I think I have just unwillingly projected too much before I applied the scent, or read anything about it, and now inevitably feel downhearted).
It is now in the dry down phase of the bases, but there is nothing of what is listed that comes recognisably to my nose. What I do get, however, are faint reminders of grapefruit bitterness, which is kind of the opposite of the ‘usual’ development ladder. I don’t actually mind it and quite enjoy that possibility of a mischievous twist. But the thing is, as I have written above, Paradis Perdu just doesn’t grasp my imagination.
See also my review of The Orchid Man and L’Humaniste by Frapin.
Notes: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Citron, Yellow Mandarin // Leaf Blend, Galbanum, Elemi, Paradisamide // Vetiver, Hay, Virginia Cedarwood, Rosewood, Labdanum, Mosses, Musks
Other perfume reviews of Paradis Perdu by Frapin Perfumes:
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