Nose: Cécile Zarokian
The very first impressions are of sharp woods with some acetic boost of… nail polish? Hmmmm… However, this is the immediate very first impression of Private Label picture, literally the first whiff, and then the white, astringent wood, of birch or pine… The wood softens and mellows a little, and soon enough new gentle notes of grassy-woody and touch earthy to that light wood pop up – sure it’s the workings of the vetiver and patchouli in the head notes.
It is very comforting and welcoming opening sequence, even though that very first whiff was totally elsewhere to where the Jovoy’s perfume wants us to go… And it wants to go and play, digging up and getting a little dirty with the earth under the nails.
Half an hour after the initial spritz, gentleness of sweetened wood is the facet that is most pronounced in the fragrance. That softness is perhaps coming form the ‘leather’ notes listed in the heart of the perfume. But Private Label is not a leather fragrance, and Jovoy here uses it more like a catchphrase than the actual motif. ‘Leather’ just goes well and fits well with certain imaginary territory in which we are taking a stroll with this Jovoy’s joyful little numero.
It is clearly not a ‘fresh and living’ wood consumed by the living forest, nor the dusty, old wood of a long-forgotten cupboard found on the attic. Papyrus douce. I do enjoy it for what it is now, a balanced play between the dry, pale woods and an ambery warmth of resins. Nihil novi sub sole, ma piaccevole.
An 1.5h later the perfume noticeably loosens its grip on me. Further couple of hours, and all I get from the dry-down stages is inky vetiver and cedarwood, no better than watered-down Encre Noire form Lalique. And my initial observations about quite significant an implosion of the scent need to make it up form my notes to this text as well, and unfortunately. It is as if the fragrance was pumping up all the energy at the sprint stage early into the competition, saving no breath for the very last meters of the run…
(Longevity thought, is very decent, as the morning after, I could still smell the reminiscent of the scent).
Notes: Papyrus // Patchouli, Vetiver, Leather // Birch, Cedarwood, Cistus (Labdanum), Sandalwood,
Other perfume reviews of Jovoy’s Private Label:
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