Huitième Art, 2013
Nose: Pierre Guillaume
Monsieur enters the room dressed up in dry papyrus on a green vetiver base outfit. The semblance to the Lalique Encre Noir is striking: the same inky outset, but while Encre Noir is a mature gentleman who clearly knows what he wants and where is he heading to, Huitième Art’s Monsieur is by comparison, a juvenile type, still breaming with lighter and perhaps a little undecided behaviour (translated on gentle support of burning woods and some ashes from wooden logs drying out on a humid morning). After 15 minutes Monsieur suddenly wakes up to a little more forceful if arid and streaky posture, quite contrasting to the timid and unsure first steps he made when entering the room.
A little change occurs here, the humidity of the air coalescence the ashes, which still far from wet earthy tension, are just less dry in impression. (With no relevance to a smelling sensation, I just reminded myself of the appealingly vile, rotten and dump stone cellar where Lorenzo Villoresi keeps his Vetiver fragrance (instead of his cooking delicatessen…! Oh, with that Vetiver, it is a ‘love and hate’ relationship that I have…)
Monsieur thus far is a a very classic (but is it also classy?) perfume take on wood, nested in moss, vetiver, with a hint of incense, and for the genre of woody-smokey perfumes, there is nothing innovative in Monsieur. It is not a critique, after all, not every composition needs to (indeed, it shouldn’t!) be a breakthrough. It would not be a revelation to state that constant chase for novelty (marketing and money-driven, to be clear, from the most mainstream to the niche houses) is what obscures good and skilful craftsmanship in the processes of fragrance creation.
In this respect, Monsieur from the Huitième Art // Parfumerie Generale is a decent and a ‘proper’ play on green’ey woodsy theme, lightly shimmering in the background. All the key components (and keywords!) are here, and it is a good, tasty meal. My only issue would be that it is served as fanciful and exquisite meal ‘experience’, while it is clearly not.
Pierre Guillaume’s Monsieur is not a ‘living’ wood fragrance (think: nature’s elan vital circulating through the veins), nor it is a ‘dying wood’ (as in: rotting and macerating timber, covert with moss and fern) boscage scent. (Yes, I had consulted the thesaurus, and found that charming latin derivative! 🙂
Equally, Monsieur is not (nor should be categorised as) a ‘masculine’ scent (vide too obvious a name). In its currently given very transparent and rather dainty composition, it would equally well fit the ‘feminine’ (boisée) descriptors.
One thing I cannot deny Monsieur perfume is its persistence and unwillingness to part away… The fragrance is long-lasting: I woke up the next day to the lingering, light wood’sy touches of delicate ash smoke on my forearm.
Other perfume reviews of Huitième Art’s Monsieur:
Notes: Patchouli, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Poplar, Oakmoss, Incense wood, Papyrus
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