Huitième Art, 2011
Noise: Pierre Guillaume
Notes: Myrrh, Black tea, Vanilla, Licorice
Grand opening: first burst of licorice with a tiny touch of vanilla, which all quickly dash off to pave the way for something boozy? Perhaps reminiscent of some other perfumes from the Huitième Art line. The second and slightly more attenuated, yet still noticeable, pummel on my nostrils is something of a black, oily smear. It instantly reminds me of leather – no surprises! – in all its dirty, raw format. This, however, is an illusion (what isn’t!?) of a craftsman behind, Pierre Guillaume, who evokes somethings our of something else. That something being leather here, while the something else is the actual dose of myrrh on the infusion of the black tea.
What a pleasant surprise it is!, as I was expecting douce rendering as attested by some other existing reviews of Myrrhiad, only further strengthened by the experience of other offerings form the (over?) prolific collections of Pierre Guillaume. However, no – for now, the perfume which is set to pronounce and celebrate myrrh, has been offering something of an animalistic smudge. It is not dry, not at all, and actually feels warm and soft, which no doubt is a graceful, background work of vanilla. It is not strong and distinct, and actually not pronounced on its own, of which I am very happy. I rarely enjoy vanilla perfumes, as usually they are too sweet, and turn out rather uninteresting.
1h later the composition slowly begins to loosen its (not overpowering, but firm) grip. It slightly worries me, as a number of other creations from Pierre Guillaume collections, and including the Huitième Art, have that tendency to open bold and big and interesting, captivating the imagination and attention… but ending up too lackluster and languid and somewhat disappointing, not living up to the grand entrée.
Fortunately, Myrrhiad‘s structure is not falling into that trap (well too familiar in the current mass market capitalist enterprise format: quick ‘feel good’ opening to allure the clientele to buying, and then implosion and disappearance. Only to make people spray more, and use it quicker, and to rush yet even quicker to buy next one. Money goes around, goes around, goes around…). The perfume is intriguing from the outset, and keeps me curious and willing to sniff again and again…
Myrrhiad is also somewhat playful fragrance: on the one hand it is linear and does not offer a very complex formation and buildup, hitting a fairly concrete note from the beginning; on the other hand, the ingredients and their individual notes do not subdue much, and remain pronounced individually, dancing together and around each other, but not unifying into some kind of new scent of note.
Further on with time, there still is nice, rounded sweetness but not, thank goddess, of saccharine or sickening, cream-like facets. Indeed, it is just a soft background, cushioning a more centrally placed myrrh and black tea (although truth be told, I can’t sense the tea on its own here, but working in pair with myrrh as its supporting and enriching companion).
Myrrhiad makes me occasionally recall Liqueur Charnelle perhaps not surprisingly, since here we have licorice at work, while in the latter, rather pleasant liqueur.
Finally, the perfume has good longevity, around 10 hours now; close on the skin, I can still enjoy it, even though after all these hours, it is very different pleasantry than the original burst.
Other perfume reviews of Myrrhiad by Huitième Art: