Nose: Pierre Guillaume, 2013
Notes: Cocoa leaf, Citrus notes, Ginger // Moroccan labdanum // Cocoa, Vetiver, Guaiac wood, Copahu balsam
Sable Marocain opens as a surprise! First impressions: citrus ridge on the edges of the animalic notes – labdanum! It kicks off immediately, no ginger. Wow, labdanum is really strongly pronounced here.
First few minutes – good sillage, I’m at a computer typing this, and enjoying the meandering scent that arrives to my nose from my forearm.
I don’t know about the cocoa leafs or ginger in the opening notes of this Phaedon’s perfume, for all I can smell immediately after the perfume settles on my skin is that bold animalistic labdanum core, circled with a thin line of citrusy sphere. Sable Marocain is not sweet (thank goddess!), which is nice, for it is well trodden path to do ‘oriental’ perfume on sweet guaiac wood, oud, amber, etc. (Think of all the numerous perfumes with ‘Moroccan’ or ‘Arabie’ in their names…)
That animalism of Sable Marocain is a welcomed surprise, especially that having already tried several of the Pierre Guillaume’s offerings (the three notable lines under his supervision are: Parfumerie General, Phaedon, Huitième Art), ‘surprise’ is not a word that I would associate with this prolific Nose.
2,5h later, the very intense labdanum leisurely slows down, becoming a little more tame. The citrusy ring has faded away already too, and what what has left en lieu is the slight metallic undertone, reminiscent of ‘citrus’. (After additional 30 min it disappears as well).
4h on, I start thinking of other perfumes that have that weaker labdanum undertone, and what comes to my mind is one of my favourite roses: Rose d’Arabie of Armani/Privé (think rich, dark, lush and voluptuous carmine-coloured velvet; yes, I know the most cliché set of adjectives I could come up with… yet still, somehow it fits and doesn’t feel tacky at all, in connection with that particular perfume).
6h later, the perfume is gentle: labdanum has calmed down, powdered up (but not too much, so it doesn’t offend) possibly due to guaiac wood (see Huitième Art’s Liqueur Charnelle, another offer from Pierre Guillaume).
Other perfume reviews of Phaedon’s Sable Marocain: