Nose: Jeanne-Marie Faugier, 2007
Frapin’s Passion Boisée welcomes me with a scent of sweet orange; not neroli or based on it an ‘orange flower’ composition, but ‘sweet orange’ of the ‘December/Christmas type, to which we are well used to through the seasonal commercial push of many household products. That must be the mandarine head note. It is slightly heavier (if that is the correct word here) fragrance to that of an orange blossom (especially when compared to my favourite Orange Vert from Hèrmes).
Few minutes on, for an instant, the perfume develops tiny more sour sensation, as if it was wrestling with itself, undecided if Passion Boisée prefers the douce or the tart of its own orange’ness. That scuffle is short lived, however, and soon after the (quite basic) sweet orange feel from the initial spray regains its presence; Frapin’s perfume gave up on the tart approach. There is nothing of individual nutmeg or clove that I can detect, perhaps aport of that, what is used to sweeten up the neroli into ‘sweet orange’ type.
An hour on the skin, Passion Boisée finally manages to grab an attention with a something boozy and nose-swirling in its palette; finally some spiciness! Still, the projection of this Frapin’s perfume is not impressive, and so one rally try and sniff for them from underneath of orange’esque liqueur’ish fragrance, which Passion Boisée has become by now. The vaguely liqueur’ish and nose-swirling sensation is most likely the rum listed in the heart notes. It is a pleasant development (from what it offered in the first place), and reminds me about Huitième Art’s Liqueur Charnelle, which is also about reimagining of that liqueur’ish flavours and scents.
Late into the perfume’s wear and a dry-down, once the rather tame sweet orange has faded away and the more satisfying orange liqueur has evaporated, at long last Passion Boisée offers to my nostrils a touch of that named parfum boisée. It is airy cedarwood with hints of leather’ly citrus (a little like bergamot in a base rather than in a head). however, please do not take that ‘leather’ seriously here, it is more a memory reminder than anything else, instantaneous flash that is already gone, just when we even realise that it was there at all. This airy transparency of cedarwood in the last moments of the fragrance’s dry-down, brings to me the recollection of the wonderfully weightless Santal Massoïa from the Hermes’ boutique collection Hemessence.
Other perfume reviews of Passion Boisée from Frapin: