Noses of the whole Collection: Anne-Cecile Douveghan, Daniele Maniquant, Catherine N`Guyen, and Pierre Guillaume, 2013
Black Vetiver has a strong opening on hesperidia notes, particularly lemon tree leaves and branches, so lemon variation on petitgrain. It is rather safe opening and thus it does not disappoint, but it can either hardly excite, given the abundance of similar openings and takes on vetiver. (But then again, if we are on such a popular notes like vetiver, can we really still expect any surprises in fragrances promising to deliver on that particular theme?)
After a few minutes, the lemon leaf dies down, opening up space for vetiver to emerge and take the reign. What would that rule be? Softer but richer, suede-like as in Lubin’s Vetiver? Or drier and more pale, like in the classic Vetiver from the Guerlain? To my nose, its rendering is quite simple, like in the latter of the mentioned fragrances, perhaps a tad bit softer and less pungent… It continues its life on this ‘regular’ note, and on my skin does not offer any further buildout. It is nice (after all it is a vetiver perfume!), but nothing that would stay in the memory for longer than a current moment.
Towards the end, before this Phaedon’s offering completely disappears, almost like a swan’s song, the dry vetiver blasts and some kind of gently sweet lingering taste ends up on the skin. One also has to notice rather poor sillage: I sprayed it in the afternoon, and by the 10pm it was all gone.
Black Vetiver, another offering from the prolific Phaedon line belonging to the growing Pierre Guillaume fragrance imperium, has a big competition on the market (be it the more popular, selective, or niche). Vetiver is these days definitely one of the most popular single notes that not only are used in a make up of more complex palettes, but is also a theme of its own in numerous ’one note’ fragrances. Is it able to survive the competition? Or even defend its position next to the classics, like the Guerlain’s Vetiver? Unfortunately, I am not an optimist…
More perfume reviews of Phaedon’s Black Vetiver: