Huitième Art (Parfumerie General)
Nose: Pierre Guillaume, 2014
Another offer in the Huitième Art line of perfumes from Pierre Guillaume is Liqueur Charnelle, which opens up… well, liqueur’sh. Quickly after the initial spay, the delicately fruity liqueur aroma hits the nostrils, and the tongue begins watering for the maturated in alcohol fruits (plum? raspberry? non important). However, similarly quickly, this good, nice impression is covered with the powdery, somewhat sued’ish feel. Next, a quick wave, we are back to the opening maturated fruit liqueur; a short hit’n’run, nice surprise. And then back we are again to that delicately powdery cloud of spiced up roots. Could it be the ‘blond tobacco’? There is a hint on that, similar to the other Pierre Guillaume’s offering: Bois Blonde (Parfumerie General).
Huitième Art has offered this time a ‘flat’ perfume – an 1,5h on, the fragrance remains in the same registers, presenting no further development (well, at least on my skin!). While this is not necessary anything bad, it may actually be more of a challenge; since the fragrance is designed to stay on a one line and not develop through phases, the challenge for the perfumer is to design it in such a way that its bouquet will charm us from the very first sniffs, and remain charming and interesting all those hours of wear later. Will the Liqueur Charnelle stand to that challenge? Let me smell in few hours and decide.
This offering from Pierre Guillaume reminds me of olfactory impressions from Chambre Noire (Olfactive Studio), which is also about powdery-sweet, warm sensual impressions. What distinguishes them is promise fulfilled: Liqueur Charnelle’s some softly piquant undertone of liqueur manages to remind me of cognac-maturated fruit liqueur, while Chambre Noire fails, overall, to fulfil on its promise of leather (at least on my skin).
Overall: Liqueur Charnelle has an interesting opening of what would be called the first ‘head’ notes. But as it is designed as the ‘flat’ perfume, its core fragrance is not, unfortunately, standing the test of time on my skin, and after few hours, it doesn’t surprise nor appeals enough, to keep sniffing…
Other perfume reviews of Huitième Art’s Liqueur Charnelle: