Nose: Dorothée Pios, 2011.
Chambre Noire has an interesting opening: strong nose-swirling pepper, but on a softly sweet base, not dry one. Quite gourmand’ish in my first opinion. I have also noted the Olfactive Studio’s fragrant skin biting sensation; it is quite fun, that bity bite on my forearm where I have sprayed the perfume.
Slowly, slowly, after few minutes, hints of dark cellar smell sneaks out to the surface… Although Chambre Noire from Olfactive Studio is nothing like Villoresi’s ‘Vetiver’, it somehow reminds me of it (not sure quite yet how and why…) Some hints of that full-on blown up ‘dark rotten cellar’ smell of vetiver just popped up a couple of times in a short little flashes somewhere at the very back of of Chambre Noire. Still, a delicate gourmand’ish sweet shawl keeps softening the edges and is the most distinguishable note to me.
Further down 5-10 min, some leathery notes manage to emerge: soft na delicate combination of individual notes that begin to resemble leather ensemble (rather than a strong and fully developed leather scent on its own) It’s soft, and I imagine it to be of smooth, light brown colour. The sweetness is of powdery nature, not too much, but clearly present, and it is there where the violet is pronounced most clearly.
In the heart I could not smell any incense or papyrus in Chambre Noire so far. The leather’ly undertones that developed a teasing bite are momentarily gone now, powdery violet is somehow wrapping everything around as the blanket of soft wool. This is inevitably the sign that perfume is already in its base notes momentum…
A couple of hours later, the scent is almost gone, I need to hit the nose on my forearm to sniff any remaining lingerings… All I can get from it is vanilla. Further with time (after 4h or so), there is almost nothing left of it on on my arm; rather disappointing.
Other sweet-smelling perfumes: Carner’s Palo Santo and Liqueuer Charnelle from Huitième Art.
Other reviews of Olfactive Studio’s Chambre Noire: